Zendette Rotating Header Image

Travel

Filling in the blanks, pt. 3

Happy 2010!

No photos today.  Looks like we may have lost our Internet connection for good this time.    But wanted to finish the “mansion” story and get us out of that awful house.

I woke up after our first night there feeling  because it was so overheated and we couldn’t open a window because DH worried that Karen would get sick…don’t get me started on that now.  Sasha picked us up in the morning, and we began a day of rounds to notaries and other offices.  I called our agency director to tell him that we absolutely could NOT stay in that house.  First because they had a long-haired cat and Karen is allergic and then I listed the other reasons.  He sounded worried and told me that I shouldn’t say anything about the problems with the house to Sasha, except to tell him that we need to leave due to Karen’s allergies.  I agreed that we would stick to that excuse.  Our director then spoke to Sasha and explained the allergy issue.

After a couple of phone calls made by our translator, Violetta, she told us that it would be a problem to find an apartment so close to New Years because many Ukrainians rent apartments on that holiday and landlords had mostly already rented out for that weekend.  We said we would be willing to vacate for that weekend if necessary, but she and Sasha still couldn’t find us anything..so they said.  She finally came up with a place, but told us she wasn’t sure it would be ok for us. 

We spent a second night at the “mansion”, eating mostly eggs.  In the morning, Dudu went with Sasha and Violetta to see the place.  He said it was filthy, small, and far from the center, but that they only wanted 32 USD a night for it.  He told Violetta that he was willing to pay up to 50 USD for a decent place.  She liked the sound of that, and eventually, through “our” notary, found a fantastic place.  We now live in a 2 room apartment 2 blocks from the city center, with EVERYTHING in walking distance.  It is clean.  The only thing lacking is Internet.  Dudu asked about it, and was told we’d need to purchase a router (hardware), and pay to set up a line.  It seemed an  long production, considering we had an Internet cafe on our block, so he let it go.

Once we got to the apartment, he showed me a line he had noticed when he first saw the place, but didn’t mention to the landlady.  He said it looked like an Internet line, and sure enough, it worked!  So we are set , even if it is an illicit line. 

Why was our director loath to tell Sasha that we just wanted a different place?  Because a facilitator like Sasha, generally makes a cut of the rent when they find an apartment.  This is considered part of their compensation.  However, it seems like Sasha was a bit greedy.  First, he set the rent at an outragious 80 USD per night, and second, it looked like he was making a killing, letting us stay in his employer’s house (possibly without her knowledge) and then just giving a small percentage to the cook to keep her quiet.   Overall, Sasha is doing an excellent job of pushing the paperwork through quickly and efficiently.  However, he’s also trying to save money by only taking us to visit Matan once a day, instead of the twice to which we are entitled.  We aren’t making a big deal about it because once a day is enough, considering that we also have Karen with us, and also because we recognize that he lost a big chunk of the cash he expected to make when we insisted on leaving the awful house.

One more note on the house.  If you see the earlier photo with the larger-than-life picture of the owner, Marina, in the background you get an idea of her personality.  What we neglected to photograph was the rest of the room.  The walls were covered with portrait shots of her and her son, her dancing with her son, and sexy headshots of her alone.  It was totally bizarre.  I wish I had asked her last name.  I’d love to look her up on the Internet.  Apparently, Sasha is her driver, and one reason he has so much pull in the government offices, is that she is the “unofficial” mayor of the city.  At least, that’s what we heard.  But this is Ukraine, so who really knows.  The truth is flexible.

Filling in the blanks, continued

We arrived at the mansion, a three level home hidden behind a high brick wall.  Guarding the entrance was a huge dog, perhaps half St. Bernard, half German Shepherd.  He was kept in a large cage near the front door.  As soon as he heard us coming up the walk, he began barking and a terrified Karen refused to continue.  We finally got her through the front door and into the foyer. 

From what I have seen, Russian homes rely on the kitchen as the sitting room. Most homes are small, so all rooms become bedrooms.  This house didn’t lack space, but we were still ushered into a kitchen the size of 2 Israeli living rooms.  There were two large tables.  Sasha motioned us to sit, and the woman cooking brought us soup for lunch.  As always, Karen asked for the bathroom, and this was our first sign that the house was far from normal.  The toilet was on the ground floor and included a pool of water that was bigger than a jacuzzi, smaller than a pool, and looked very much like a Mikve (Jewish ritual bath).  Karen squealed with joy, thinking this was the bathtub she had been waiting for!  In Israel, we have water rationing and we use a shower to save water.  I promised Karen as many baths as she wanted in Ukraine.

Needless to say, we soon discovered that only the toilet was for our use.  When we indicated that we wanted to bathe after a 16 hour train ride and then half a day spent meeting our “team” and visiting the baby home, we were ushered into a small bathroom with a tub surrounded by more products than you will find in a sorority house. 

We discovered that the house belongs to a wealthy Jewish widow who was in the US visiting her son, the doctor (of course).  There was a dry sauna, which was also closed to our use.  The cook showed us to a rooftop garret with two sofa beds.  The wooden stairs leading up to it were as steep as a ladder and we needed to climb down two full flights to use the only bathroom made available to us.  Further, we soon discovered that the fridge was empty and the lunch we ate was the last edible thing the cook prepared.  We later found a fridge in the garage with some eggs in it, and I made omelets the next day after the cook tried to feed us some sort of meatball that was deep fried in rancid oil.

The widow, Marina’s, living quarters appeared to be on the second floor and included a large sitting room, and at least two other doors, probably a bedroom and private bathroom.  The doors were closed so we didn’t see them.  The entire house was painfully over decorated with stuffed animals of every genus, crystal, china, and knickknacks.  Marina apparently loves the USA since we found American flags and other memorabilia everywhere.  This photo of us with George Bush, and a life-size Marina portrait in the background, was in our garret.

To add to our discomfort, there was no Internet, and this “mansion” was in a totally residential area with no Internet cafe, or even a grocery store in walking distance.  We realized we had to leave, but had no one to speak English with, and no idea how to go about finding a new place.

Filling in the blanks

So what happened during our “lost days”, while we were offline?  Actually, it all happened over Christmas so no one really noticed we were shut down.

On the day we arrived in Lugansk, after meeting Matan and completing his medical exam, we needed a place to stay.  Now this is one of the major cash cows for the facilitator, who usually gets a cut.  In most cases they present you with an apartment, a daily price, and you can either take it, or go to a hotel.  The hotel option is terrible for two reasons.  First, you can’t cook and with Karen, it is even more important that we have a kitchen.  Second, when you go to a hotel, you must first show ID. Only after you show your passport, are you given the price.  Basically, if you are foreign, a hotel starts at 100 EUR + per night.  When you consider that we will be here for a minimum of 25 days, you begin to see that the initial agency fee is only one part of  the overall expense. 

Our goal then, is to find a reasonably priced apartment with a gas range and washing machine that is reasonably clean and an easy walk to shopping, especially a supermarket.  We can survive in a Studio, but are better off with a 1 bdrm.

At the end of our meeting between  our driver, Sasha (who speaks no English), and our agency director, the director told us that Sasha had a fantastic place for us to stay “only” 80 USD a night in a 3 level mansion with a full time cook who would prepare all meals for us and do our laundry.  Sounds great, right?  Keep in mind that when we adopted Karen, we had a Studio apartment that cost us only 25 USD a night, but had no washing machine, and it was filthy.  Not someplace I would be willing to stay with Karen, although it met our needs at the time.

We explained to our agency director that while it sounded wonderful, DH really doesn’t like the local cuisine, and we would prefer a simple place where we can cook our own food.  Our director told us not to worry, that Sasha would look after us, and then he left.  Sasha motioned us to the car, and took us to the mansion.

Too be continued…..

Kiev-bound

A nice long post disappeared. Boarding soon so will need to update after arrival. -9 Celsius, brrrrrrrr.